Pleasures of the Peaks

This was the third attempt to run this trip, having been delayed through lockdowns and waiting for the right hotel. However, 26 of us finally set off on a wet Monday morning after three regulars sadly had to cancel through ill health. Through various pick-up points we were on our way, via the M25 and M40, with our very competent and pleasant driver, Gary.

Our first stop, at lunchtime, was at Charlecote Park, a National Trust property in Warwickshire. By now the sun was shining and an invigorating walk took us to the house, gardens and facilities. Built in the 1550s of warm red brick and Warwickshire stone, it was the home of the Lucy family. Elizabeth I paid a visit here 450 years ago. The house is full of surprising treasures, reflecting the tastes and fortunes of the Lucy family. The gardens were designed by Capability Brown and Jacob sheep and fallow deer roam across the parkland. It is a haven for wildlife. There was a lot to see but we had to continue our journey north.

We arrived at the Lee Wood hotel in Buxton about 5.30pm, having travelled through the glorious country of the Peaks with its winding hilly roads, streams and woodlands. The hotel was situated on the outskirts of the town with views over the valley. It was very comfortable and we enjoyed a good dinner in their conservatory restaurant.

On Tuesday, after a good breakfast, we set off for Bakewell, the home of the Bakewell pudding. We had now acquired our Blue Badge guide Sam, who took us on a short walking tour of the town. This was delightful and we had time to sample the pudding, which was delicious. Sam was a mine of information throughout our tour.

Our next visit was to Chatsworth, the home of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. Set in the heart of the Peak District National Park it is one on Britain’s best loved historic houses. Mary Queen of Scots was under house arrest here for 15 years. It is an enormous house full of treasures and beautiful gardens. Pride and Prejudice was filmed here. The weather was perfect for our visit.

On Wednesday we went to Renishaw, the home of Edith Sitwell and her family – a delightful house with Italianate gardens. We were treated to a guided tour of the house and would have enjoyed a longer stay. We then travelled to Hardwick Hall, an Elizabethan treasure house with the finest tapestries in Europe and the home of Bess of Hardwick, who was responsible for building it. Bess was originally the daughter of a farmer, who through four marriages ended up in the court of Elizabeth I and living at Chatsworth until she parted from her fourth husband. It was a long walk from the coach park to the restaurant and then further to the house, but buggies were available for those who required them.

On Thursday it rained! We had a walking tour of Buxton, which was interesting, and we managed it between the downpours. The coach met us in the town and we carried on our journey to Quarry Bank Cotton Mill in Cheshire. The route took us over the High Peak, which would have been spectacular had it not been sheathed in low cloud. Apparently, it is normally like that!

A restored Georgian cotton mill, Quarry Bank tells the story of ‘King Cotton’ from a bale of raw cotton to the finished cloth. It was interesting with all the machinery and the history of those who worked there.

Children from 10 years old were employed and lived in the Apprentice House. The work was hard but this mill was one of the better ones, with a good owner. The noise and conditions must have been horrendous on a daily basis. We could not really see all the grounds because of the rain, but it made for an interesting trip.

Friday was our departure day and it was still raining. Fortunately, we were on the coach, with Gary doing all the driving in pretty unpleasant conditions. We stopped for lunch at Upton House and Gardens, the home of Lord Bearsted, with the finest art collection in England.

Finally, we arrived safely back in Dorking after a very enjoyable trip.

Ianthe Cox